EXCEL AIR SYSTEMS

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Design Guidelines

TON	BTU	AMPS	Lights*
2.0	24,000	12.4	6
2.5	30,000	14.7	7-8
3.0	36,000	17.9	9
3.5	42,000	21.5	10-11
4.0	48,000	21.1	12
5.0	60,000	33.3	15

*Sealed room using Co2 with 1000w lights

2. Minimum Air Duct Sizing

TON	Min. Supply Duct	Return Duct
2.0	10"	12"
3.0	12"	12"
4.0	14"	14"
5.0	14"	16"

Question: What gauge wire size should I use?

Answer: It all depends on the size of your unit. Below is a chart with wire size recommendations;

2.0 Ton 2.5 Ton 3.0 Ton	12 Gauge
3.5 Ton 4.0 Ton	10 Gauge
5.0 Ton	8 Gauge

Question: Does it matter which power wire goes onto each part of the contactor?

Answer: It does not matter which cable is fastened down on the either part of the contactor. Both wires have 120V giving you a total of 240V to the contactor. Make sure to fasten the ground wire to the ground terminal and if you have a COMMON wire DO NOT USE IT! Cut the wire and terminate the wire with a marret and some electrical tape.

Question: Does it matter which power wire goes to black or purple power wire on the Indoor Air Handler?

Answer: No it does not. Using the marrets included in your package marret either wire to each of the black and purple power wires. Connect the ground wire to the ground terminal. DO NOT USE A COMMON WIRE! Cut the COMMON WIRE and terminate with a marret and electrical tape.

Question: I want to relocate my system, is there anything I need to do?

Answer: The best thing to do is to “pump down” the system. This is to pump refrigerant into the outdoor condenser using the compressor. In order to pump down the system firstly make sure the system is running and calling for cooling. Next, you need to locate the valve on the liquid line (small pipe) on the outdoor condenser. There is a brass hex cap that is to be removed and an allen key (3/16”) socket will be there. Turn the allen key clockwise until it bottoms out. This will pump the refrigerant into the condenser. Turn off the system after 1 minute. Close the large valve that is beside the liquid line valve. That allen key is (5/16”) and can be closed by turning the allen key clockwise until it’s closed. When the system has been relocated and all of the refrigerant lines are reconnected properly along with all the fittings being tight, open both of the closed valves (counter clockwise). Make sure BOTH valves are open, replace the hex caps and start up your system.

Question: Does my compressor need to stand straight up and down or can I lay it on its side?

Answer: The compressor must stay upright. As the oil in the compressor must stay at the bottom of the compressor to keep everything properly lubricated.

Question: My unit doesn't seem to be cooling but the compressor is running?

Answer: Check every quick connect fitting on the system. Make sure they are lined up properly meaning they are on even plains and are threading properly. DO NOT USE PIPE TAPE. Use two wrenches, one to hold the fitting solid on the unit piece and one wrench to turn on the lineset. Tighten until tight, do not over tighten. Many issues have been resolved by clients going back over their fittings and finding one or more fittings a quarter turn loose. Other things to check would be the valves located on the base of the Outdoor Condensing Unit. Remove caps and make sure the Allen key holes are all the way to the top, or in some models that the ball valve is completed turned to the left side (towards you). Lastly, check to make sure there are no kinks on any of the copper lines. On the larger insulated line, to your hand and run it pressed against the foam insulation.

Question: Why won't my thermostat turn on?

Answer: Check to make sure all wires are fastened to the proper terminals on the control board inside the Indoor Air Handler. You must remove the front panel of the Indoor Air Handler to access the control board. Make sure the following colors are matched up; (Red=R, Black=Y, Green=G, Orange=W1, White=C). Now check to make sure all wires are tight and correct on the sub-base (mounting spot of the thermostat). If these are correct and tight to the board check the small fuse located on the control board. For further questions contact technical support.

Question: The fan on my Outdoor Condensing Unit won't turn on.

Answer: It's not uncommon for a Stealth Unit to take a few minutes for the condenser fan to turn on due to it being controlled by system temperature. Especially during winter operation however if the system continues to run and the fan doesn't turn on the system most often will go into protection mode where it will turn off the compressor for at least 30 minutes or the cooling capabilities will be significantly degraded.

STEALTH SERIES
Things to check on a Stealth Series unit would be to make sure all wires coming into the front panel of the outdoor condenser are matched up according to color and that the molex connector on the front of the compressor box is plugged in properly. Next on the Stealth would be to check the 2 wire molex connector on the compressor box to the control board on the Indoor Air Handler. Lastly, check to see if fan control (black box found inside cover panel of outdoor condensing unit) has an orange or green LED lit up. If not, contact technical support for further instruction.

XL SERIES
On XL Series units make sure the two wire is connected from the two push connectors on the Outdoor Condensing unit to Y & C on the control board found inside the Indoor Air Handler.

Question: My unit seems to run fine but after the unit switches off, it seems to take a bit to come back on even if the temperature is above the set point.

Answer: There is a 5 minute time delay set on the thermostat straight from our factory. The reason this is put in place is to stop the unit from short cycling (trying to turn on the compressor before the previous pressure has zeroed out). Your temperatures may climb a bit however this process will be constant and the average temperature will be your desired setting. There should be no ill effects. Contact technical support for any additional information.

Question: What should I do with the extra copper lineset I have left over after running all my lines?

Answer: Our recommendation is to keep them coiled up and either screw them to the wall or ceiling up and out of the way using strapping, preferably flat. Your unit will run perfectly fine leaving the lineset coiled.

Question: There is a kink in my line, what should I do?

Answer: Depending on the severity of the kink try and take a set of pliers and squeeze the side of the kink to attempt to straighten it out. Be very cautious when doing this as to not break the copper completely. If the kink is too severe you will need to replace the copper line.

Question: I can't find my thermostat, wiring or instructions?

Answer: Most often the package containing these pieces is found inside the front panel of the Indoor Air Handler, remove the 4 screws and you should see an airtight bag. Don't forget to fasten the front panel back on before running the system.

Question: What's the best way to mount my Indoor Air Handler?

Answer: You can either mount the Indoor Air Handler vertically or horizontally lying on its right side. Most individuals stand their Indoor Air Handler straight up and down. The only critical requirement is that the bottom of the air handler is at least 12" off the ground and is supported around the edges allowing for air to pass up through the bottom. You can either build a support stand out of wood or use a bottom plenum. Instructions for a wooden stand can be found on our website, http://excelair.ca/Wooden%20Air%20Handler%20Stand.pdf. If you are looking to mount horizontally, you must have it sit on its right side, this is because the drain pan is on this side and the water will run off the A-coil and into the drain pan. As for brackets to mount the air handler Excel Air Systems sells a hanging kit that includes lag bolts, ready-rod, unistrut along with washers, bolts and instructions. You can also fabricate your own out of wood or metal. If you choose to build your own make sure to leave enough space for the removal of the front panel along with access to all the fittings and filter tray. Also, when hanging horizontally make sure there is at least 12"-16" of clearance on both sides of the air handler.

Question: Should I use a Top Plenum?

Answer: It's highly recommended every installation uses a Top Plenum. The reason for this is because it allows for easy ducting connection, allowing for even cooling coverage throughout the room.

Question: How do I build the top plenum?

Answer: Match the edges up to make a 90 degree edge and using a hammer bang the edge into the side opening from top to bottom. Repeat so all four sides are complete. Place the top over all the edges and hammer the top down, once everything is together hammer the four corners inward locking the top piece down. Click this link for Bang Together Plenum Instructions.

Question: What is your return policy?

Answer: If the unit has been unwrapped and installed there is no return available. We can however work with you to possibly sell it on consignment. If the unit has not been unwrapped or installed and is completely new condition there is a 30% restocking fee as this will cover shipping the unit to and from along with processing fees and such.